Sites with good and notable web design, great HTML examples, good coding, etc.
John M. Lynch’s Web Site is an excellent example of a professional home page done well.
More graceful simplicity: Don Klipstein’s Web Site.
How minimalist can it get? Ask John Cowan.
Databases, Magazines and Web Resources
Michael E. Grost’s A Guide to Classic Mystery and Detection is one of the best examples of good plain design for an online guide or resource site.
The gopher-directory style of the etext.org archive (defunct) [archive]
the old wikiwikiweb had and has a simple, straightforward design
TeX Font Guide is simple and readable and elegant.
Cynthia Harrison’s A Writer’s Diary.
For further reference
A good, well-designed online guide, Building Accessible Websites.
The Easy-2-Read Standard: Five smart rules for on-screen text design (“Don’t tell us scrolling is bad!”)
The Webless Initiative is against CSS, style sheets, “interactivity” and so on. It might not have much of an effect but the ideas are interesting and very often the “webless” design turns out great.
(Browsers should be able to control and present an infinite array of local styles; styles should be controllable not only by the publisher but by the reader.)